Video: CODE Race Ready 275 WSOB 2015

Video: CODE Hechicera Afternoon heats 2015

Video: MAXTRAX WORLD SERIES OF BUGS (Bollywood Version)

Video: MaxTrax World Series Of Bugs SNORE Battle At Primm Class 11 Stock VW Bug...

Video: H12:One Racing, Mint 400 2015 (part 1 & 2)

Team H12:One has to be one of the hottest teams out there. Dennis Hollenbeck is a great guy who races for a great cause.

Floor Tubes for the Roll Cage

The chassis is finally done and I'm starting on the bottom rails which will be the foundation of the roll cage.  They also tie the front suspension into the rear suspension, giving the car a solid base to confront the rigors off-road racing.

Building the Rear Droop Stops

The stock bottom stops are pretty weak and don't let the wheel go down very far.  Here's how I extended them, braced them and built a pretty pimpin' set of stops.

Video: BUGS on the eDGE - VW bugs desert race

Video: 2015 SNORE B.A.P. 1180 Jump

Video: Trying to catch 1168

Video: A few class 11's hangin' in the race...

Finishing the King-Kong Rear Torsion Adjuster

Having a rear torsion adjuster is great because first of all it's a LOT stronger than the stock torsion center, and secondly you can adjust the ride height (and stiffness) without having to take apart the end caps.  Basically, it makes maintenance much easier.

While installing the adjuster, I had to cut some pretty big holes in the tunnel to remove the old center piece and install the adjustable center.  (You can read about that here)

I often lift up the car with my floor jack by placing the jack right in this same place.  So, I added a piece of angle iron to ensure it was strong enough to support the entire car.

Here you can see how I put it all back together. 

Fixing the Front Chassis

Our donor car didn't have a clutch so the previous owner installed a hydraulic clutch.  It was pretty rigged up with a nasty hole cut into the chassis and a tab welded onto a stock clutch pedal assembly. 

It didn't look too bad until we had the body off.  Then it was clear that we'd need to do a repair.

I used some thin guage cold-rolled steel I bought from Home Depot to do the repair.

Taking a VW floorpan for a spin

Build: Class 11 Build

After countless miles in Barstow, Lucerne, and who knows where else it was time to update the old 11. This car was only raced in the MORE series and has been beaten and punished for years. Here is what it looked like before:

Reblogged from: http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=139221

Video: So you think you want to race the Baja 1000....... Part II "THE RACE"

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Red Bull Signature Series - The Mint 400 FULL TV EPISODE

Video: 2011 Mint 400 Class 11 start

Video: ABQUIM SUPERIOR DESERT RACING TEAM

Found this the other day...  Not too exciting, but cool nevertheless.

Installing Rear Torsion Adjuster

This is reblogged from http://gonzoracing.net/construction/Evolution-1.htm

Installing a rear "torsion adjuster"

When we initially built the car, we didn't install a center torsion adjuster on the rear housing; I don't remember why, but it was a mistake for two important reasons.  The first issue is that the stock torsion housing center splines will not stand up to the abuse they receive in off-road racing.  They will quickly strip out, leaving the car with no rear spring support.  That would obviously mean that the rear suspension would collapse, leaving no ground or tire/wheel well clearance......  The "King Kong" center adjuster we use is much stronger than the stock center splines.  The second issue is adjustability.  Adjusting the torsion bar pre-load (ride height) with the stock hardware requires disassembly of nearly the entire rear suspension system and "re-clocking" of the torsion bars, a time consuming affair (at least 45 minutes to do both sides when in our shop).  With the center adjuster installed, we can change pre-load at will in just a few seconds.  Those are two major advantages for a desert race car.

Beating the Baja

Beating Baja from Di3go on Vimeo.